Tip: Partly unscrew the front left thumb screw in the print head to better reach the hot end isolator.
- Loosen the nozzle from the hot end isolator (the metal ring with the holes in it) by inserting one of the hex keys that came with your Ultimaker into one of the holes of the hot end isolator and turning it counter-clockwise
- If the hot end isolator will not turn there is plastic in the threads, which locks the isolator in place. Go to Maintenance > Advanced > Heat-up Nozzle > and set it to 100 degrees to soften the plastic. The isolator will rotate easily now
- Once the isolator is loose enough the nozzle will drop down. If the nozzle was heated up be careful when handling it. Turn the Ultimaker off before continuing with the next step
- Use a hex key to loosen the set screw that is attached to the top of the heater block. Once this screw is loosened carefully pull out the PT100 B sensor* and heater cartridge. If the nozzle was heated up be careful when handling the heater
Caution: Do not pull at the PT100 B sensor with much force, as it can break. Take the PT100 B sensor cable out slowly, with a twisting motion. Apply sewing machine oil or WD40 to the heater block if it feels stuck. If the PT100 B sensor does break, replace it with a spare.
Reattaching Sensor and Heater for the Ultimaker 2
- Insert the heater cartridge and temperature sensor into the Olsson block. It’s important that they go all the way in. Both sensor and heater should be visible when looking through the small holes placed next to the set screw in the block
- Make sure to point the open side of the heater cartridge downwards to prevent filament from entering it
- Screw the set screw into the Heater block so that it fixes the PT100B sensor and the heater cartridge in place. Make sure that the set screw is properly aligned with the corresponding hole in the bottom aluminium plate of the print head before tightening
- Make sure the sensor and heater are well secured by gently pulling the cables to see if they remain in place